Suede sneakers offer a unique blend of luxury and casual style that few other materials can match. From classic Puma Suedes and Nike Blazers to high-end Common Projects and designer collaborations, suede footwear adds texture and sophistication to any collection.
Unlike smooth leather, suede's raised nap and porous surface make it particularly vulnerable to stains, water damage, and wear patterns. Many sneaker enthusiasts avoid wearing their favorite suede pairs for fear of ruining them—but with the right knowledge and tools, you can confidently wear, maintain, and even restore your suede sneakers.
What You'll Master
Suede vs. Nubuck: Understanding the Difference
While this guide focuses on suede, it's worth noting the difference between suede and nubuck, as they require similar care approaches. Suede is created from the inner split of a hide, resulting in a soft, velvety texture. Nubuck is made from the outer grain of the hide that has been sanded or buffed to create a slight nap. Nubuck is generally more durable than suede but still requires special care.
Building Your Suede Care Kit
Before diving into specific care techniques, let's assemble the essential tools you'll need for proper suede maintenance:
Essential Tools
Optional Specialized Products
Routine Maintenance: Prevention is Key
The key to keeping suede sneakers looking their best is consistent preventative care. Incorporate these practices into your routine:
Regular Brushing
Brush your suede sneakers after each wear to remove surface dirt and restore the nap. Always brush in one direction using these techniques:
For general maintenance, use a suede brush with gentle strokes in the same direction
For flattened areas, use firmer pressure with a brass-bristled brush
For delicate or high-end suede, use a softer brush with light pressure
Proper Storage
How you store your suede sneakers significantly impacts their longevity:
Preventative Protection
Before wearing new suede sneakers (or after cleaning existing pairs):
Ensure the surface is free of dust and debris
In a well-ventilated area, holding the can 6-8 inches away
Rather than saturating the material
Usually 24 hours before wearing
With regular wear, or before exposure to harsh conditions
Always test protector sprays on an inconspicuous area first, as some formulations can slightly darken certain suede colors. The inside of the tongue or heel collar is usually a good testing spot.
Basic Cleaning Techniques
For routine cleaning and light dirt removal, follow these professional methods:
Dry Cleaning Method
Light Wet Cleaning
Never use direct heat (hairdryers, heaters, etc.) to dry wet suede, as this can cause the material to stiffen and crack. Always stuff wet sneakers with paper towels or newspaper to maintain shape, replace as they become damp, and allow to dry naturally at room temperature.
Advanced Stain Removal Techniques
Different types of stains require specific approaches. Here's how to tackle the most common offenders:
Water Stains
Treatment Steps:
Pro Tip: The Steam Method
For stubborn water stains, hold the sneaker over steam from boiling water for a few seconds (not too close), then immediately brush with a suede brush. The steam helps lift the nap evenly across the material, eliminating water stain lines.
Oil and Grease Stains
Salt Stains
Common during winter months, salt stains require immediate attention:
For valuable suede sneakers with severe staining, professional cleaning may be the safest option. Specialty sneaker cleaning services and some high-end dry cleaners offer suede-specific treatments that can address difficult stains without damaging the material.
Seasonal Care and Weather Protection
Different seasons present unique challenges for suede sneakers. Here's how to adapt your care routine:
Winter Protection
Summer Care
Special Considerations for Popular Suede Models
Puma Suede
The iconic Puma Suede features a relatively durable suede that responds well to regular brushing. Focus on keeping the formstrip clean, as contrast colors can show dirt more prominently.
Nike Blazer
Nike Blazers often feature suede panels combined with canvas or leather. When cleaning, take care around material transitions and use masking tape to protect non-suede areas when applying cleaners or dyes.
New Balance 990/991/992
These premium models often feature high-quality suede that can be more delicate. Use softer brushes and take extra care with cleaning products. Their complex paneling requires attention to detail when cleaning.
Adidas Gazelle/Campus
These classics feature a dense, short-nap suede that can be more resistant to staining but may show water marks more prominently. The steam method works particularly well for these models.
Long-Term Storage
For seasonal storage or preserving collectible suede sneakers:
Before storage, addressing all stains and dirt
In its optimal direction
And allow to dry completely
Or stuff with acid-free tissue paper to maintain shape
Or shoe boxes with ventilation holes
Away from direct sunlight and heat sources
For signs of mold or pest damage
For valuable suede sneakers in long-term storage, consider adding silica gel packets to the storage container to control humidity. Replace these every few months for optimal protection.